ROUTE 2: NORTH OF OUTER RATTANAKOSIN


ROUTE INTRODUCTION

The second route is called "North of Outer Rattanakosin". It passes some defensive structures of the town like the remaining fort, city wall, city gate, and the outer city moat. This route also includes an old market place which is still now popular among Thai and foreigner "Bang Lamphu".


ROUTE 2

This route starts from the National Art Gallery located on Chao Fah road, then turn left to Chakkrapong road, and turn right to Khao San road. The following roads are Tanao, Ratchadamnoen Klang, Ban Din Sor, Phra Sumane and lastly Phra Arthit roads.

This route has the total length of about 3.3 kilometres which takes about an hour to complete. There are not many trees and shades along the route. To avoid sun-burnt or overheat during the day, walking in the morning or the evening is recommended.

1. NATIONAL MUSEUM: ART GALLERY

The Art Gallery building was built in the Fifth reign (completed in 1902). The building was originally used as the Royal Mint. After the Royal Mint was relocated to the new site on Pradipat road, this building was transferred to Fine Arts Department who repaired, renovated and changed the function to be the National Art Gallery. At present, the Gallery has both permanent and temporary art exhibition rooms and it also welcomes everyone who appreciates all kinds of arts.

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2. CHANA SONGKRAM TEMPLE

This temple is an old monastery which was built before the First reign of Rattanakosin (that is, before 1782). The former name of this temple is" Wat Klang Na" (temple in the paddy field). Later, King Rama I gave the new name "Tong Pu" (name of a town in Myanmar) and then renamed again to be "Chana Songkram" which means winning a war.

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3. KAO SAN ROAD

This road is an old road built during the Fifth reign (1868-1910). From the old map surveyed in 1921, some wooden shophouses were already built on both sides of the road. At present, the road is very well-known among western tourists for guesthouses offering cheap accommodation and this makes it look like a small western community in Rattanakosin area.

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4. BAN TANAO SHOPHOUSES (BANG LAMPHU AREA)

Old chophouses on Ban Tanao road in Bang Lamphu area was assumed to be built not earlier than during the Fifth reign (1868-1910) because of their western-influenced architectural details. The shophouses have a firewall at every two or three units. Original features of the shophouses are found at the upper floor while the ground floor parts have been changed and redecorated to fit with the current commercial activities.

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5. BANG LAMPHU

The original feature of this lively commercial place was simply a small marketplace serving a community around Wat Tong Pu or Wat Chana Songkram. Now, all kinds of goods and foods are being sold here by all types of traders ranging from street vendors, hawkers, stalls, retailers to department stores.

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6. RATCHADAMNOEN KLANG BOULEVARD

Ratchadamnoen Klang Boulevard was built during the Fifth reign (1868-1910). It was the largest and widest road at that time. Ratchadamnoen means the Royal passage because it links between the two Royal palaces which are the Grand Palace and Dusit Palace.

In the past, both sides of Ratchadamnoen Klang Boulevard were the lines of Mahogany trees. The trees were pulled out in 1941 when the huge post-war style buildings were constructed on both sides. The buildings along the Boulevard have the same texture, materials and style and most of them are used as government and private offices.

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7. DEMOCRACY MONUMENT

This monument was erected in 1939 to remind the revolution of the country administration from absolute monarchy to democracy (constitutional monarchy). Many elements of the monument imply events involved in the nation's administration and political change. For instance, the height of the four posts is 24 metres which means the date of the political change (the 24th of June 1932). The 75 canons at the base panel means the year 2475 B.E. or 1932. At the base of the four posts, plaster relief of people involved in the revolution were created.

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8. OLD SHOPHOUSES NEAR BOVON NIVET TEMPLE

These chophouses are located on Ban Dinsor road, they were built between the Fifth ( 1868-1910) and the Seventh (1925-1934) reigns. From the outlook, it seems that each unit has only one floor but actually it also has the upper space. Originally, there was a small front yard for each unit but now the yard had been filled with extended building structure. The chophouses are rented by private individuals who pay rent fee to Wat Bovon Nivet.

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9. REMAINING CITY WALL AND A CITY GATE

A part of Rattanakosin city wall and gate on PhraSumane road were restored by Fine Arts Department in1981. The city gate seen today is the only one (out of sixteen gates) that exists in the city. City gate built in the First reign did not look like the restored one but it used to be made of timber with red color paint. The present gate was restored after the gate that was built in the Fifth reign (1868-1910)

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10. BOVON NIVET VIHAN TEMPLE

Many significant buildings and art objects are located within the area of Wat Bovon Nivet. This temple was built during 1824-1832 and located near Wat Rangsi Sutthawas (built in 1823).

In the Sixth reign (1910-1925) Wat Bovon Nivet and Wat Rangsi were amalgamated into one temple and "Bovon Nivet Vihan" became the name of the new temple. This temple is one of the most important temples in Thailand

because it is the temple where King Rama VI, VII and IX spent their time in being Buddhist monks.

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11. MAHA MAKUT ROYAL COLLEGE BUILDING

Maha Makut Royal College was established in 1912 (the fifth reign) from the donation of senior civil servants. The original purpose was to build a school in Bovon Nivet temple. There are two buildings in this place that still keep their original structures and appearance. At present, the two buildings are no longer used as a school but used as the office of Thai Fortune Teller Association and a Traditional Thai Medical Clinic.

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MAHA MAKUT ROYAL COLLEGE BUILDING

12. POCKET PARK ON SIB SAM HANG ROAD

This pocket park provides open space and greenery to relax the active life of Bang Lamphu area. The park was created in 1976. It has a linear shape because it was laid on a former canal which does not exist anymore. The first idea after filling up the canal was to widen the road but the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration proposed that it would be better to create the green space than the hard road surface.

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13. RUIN OF A PALACE'S GATE ON PHRA SUMANE ROAD

This brick structure is the ruin of a palace's gate. This palace was the residence of Prince Chakra Chesada, the youngest brother of the Crown Prince (Prince Bovon Maha Sura Singhanart) of the First reign (1782-1809). The ruin is not in good condition and there is no proper maintenance on it. The tiny spirit house located in front of the dilapidated gate is the memorial of Prince Prachak Silpakhom.

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14. KLONG ROBB KRUNG OR OUTER CITY MOAT

The Outer City moat was dug in 1783, one year after the city establishment. City wall and forts were also built at almost the same time. The outer city moat is called differently depending on the places where it runs through. In the north, it is called "Klong Bang Lamphu" and in the south, it is called "Klong Ong Ang". But its official name is "Klong Robb Krung" which literally means a moat encompassing the city.

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15. PHRA SUMANE FORT

Phra Sumane Fort is a hexagonal-shaped concrete structure, topped with pointed roof. At the beginning of Rattanakosin (since 1782) there were 14 forts along the city limits (defined by The Chao Phraya River and Klong Robb Krung). Today, only 2 forts (Phra Sumane and Mahakan) remain. Phra Sumane fort was partly destructed during King Rama V-VII (1868- 1934). The Fine Arts Department repaired and restored it in 1959 and recently in 1981. The fort was brought back to its original appearance which is understood by the old picture taken in the reign of King Rama V (1868-1910).

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16. HOUSE NO. 201/1, PHRA ATHIT ROAD

House no. 201/ l is located on the land of an old palace in the First reign (1782-1809). The present building was constructed in 1926 by Finance Minister Phraya Vorapongpipat, who inherited this house from his ancestor. From 1962 to 1989, the Goethe Institute rented this house as the Institute's office. And recently, the house has been restored and the extended identical structure was constructed.

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17. THE FAO BUILDING

This is another place where a former palace is turned to be a public office. The old but beautiful and well maintained building was built in the Sixth reign (19101925) and named "Bean Maliwan". Baan Maliwan was transferred to the Crown Property Bureau in 1937 and became the office of the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations-FAO Regional Office for Asia and Pacific afterwards. After the FAO built another main office building, Baan Maliwan has become the library of the Organization. The building of Baan Maliwan has the entrance facing the river because in the past, waterway was more convenient than the road.

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18. UNICEF BUILDING

UNICEF (United Nations Children's Fund) building was built during the Fourth and the Fifth reigns (1851l9lO). Its outstanding feature is the shape of roof which combines hip and gable types together. The building was originally the residence of a Queen consort of King Rama IV.

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Last updated: 21 June 2000

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